Xavier exclaimed that he Jamia Masjid Mosque was one of the best buildings he had ever been.  It is one of the great mosques/cathedrals and inside it you feel it is very special.  It is situated in the middle of Srinagar in the Nowatta area, at the cents of the old city.  It was built by Sultan Sikandar in 1400 AD.  Later, the son of Sultan Sikandar, Zain-ul-Abidin got the mosque extended. TThe guide books describe the architecture as Indo-Saracenic, there is a a magnificent courtyard and 370 wooden pillars. Inside, you feel the peace and tranquility, standing out against the hustle of the old bazaars around it. Thousands of Muslims assemble at the mosque every Friday to offer their prayers.

We walked through the local bazaars, shopping for thongs and having a peek at what was on offer.  The deeper you go into Srinagar, the more ‘bearded persons’ you see [says Latifa, out Houseboat owner].  People are genuinely warm and welcoming, I think particularly so because of Xavier and Mei.  There is a feeling of optimism that the militancy period is behind them … we hope so too!  During the dark days of the ’90’s the men had to leave for other parts of India, where they were treated with fear and ostracised.