Srinagar is much more relaxed than when I was here in ’95 – many hindu pilgrims are here on the way up into the himalaya to visit the Shiva Linga (see wiki below).  Over the season around 500,000 people visit the sacred site and are very tightly controlled by the army.  There is also a rise in non-Indian tourism, despite the travel warnings from our governments, so where ever we go we often see a few groups of european tourists.  It is not the partying 60’s and 70’s but Srinagar is on the UP!  It is extraordinarily beautiful.

Yesterday, a few hours before sunset we left the Jacqueline for a two hour return trip through Srinagar’s Old City to visit a famous wood carving community and emporium. The Old City is the centre of the Kashmiri independence movement (at least its urban wing) and at various times over the last few decades has been a ‘no-go’ area for the Indian army, and not advised for tourists. Things are a lot better now and it is OK to visit and the people are very friendly and welcoming.  It is Ramadan, so at different times, like this one, as we made our way through communities and vegetable gardens and all types of wonderful shops, the Mosques from around the lake (and on it) called the faithful prayer.  This makes for a pretty wild and unique atmospheric moment.  Xavier and Mei are having a tremendous time and where ever they go are often called upon to be part of family snaps.  Today we head out to visit some very old and beautiful mosques … I have to stop now  and go out to ‘save’ Josie – the jewellery boat has been here for a while and she is making another purchase!  Anyone for pure silk carpets – the best (outside Iran) … $3500-4000, or a pashmina?

Located in the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir, Amarnath cave is a famous shrine in Hinduism. It is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The shrine forms an important part of Hinduism, and is considered to be one of the holiest shrines in Hinduism. The cave is surrounded by snowy mountains. The cave itself is covered with snow most time of the year except for a short period of time in summer when it is open for pilgrims.

Inside the 130 feet high Amarnath cave that faces south, is the Shiva Linga, which waxes during May to August and gradually wanes thereafter.  This lingam is said to grow and shrink with the phases of the moon, reaching its height during the summer festival.
According a Hindu legend, this is the cave where Shiva explained the secret of life and eternity to his divine consort Parvati.  Two other ice formations represent Parvati and Shiva’s son, Ganesha.